BOUNCE & HAND - STARTERS

This section describes how to combine the Dog-Games of Bounce and Hand so that the dog learns to retrieve a "ball" over flyball jumps and place the "ball" in the handler's hands in return for its motivator (the "ball" being any suitable retrieve article as described in Hand - Equipment Needed).

It is presumed that the dog has reached at least Silver level in both Games and is used to jumping 8 inch/20cm flyball jumps, and happily retrieves a "ball" from the black rubber mat at the helper's feet, 51ft/15.3m from the start/finish poles.

As with all the Dog-Games, each stage of all the Dog-Games is non-competitive and is designed to help both dog and handler learn at their own pace and to their own ability.  Dog-Games recommends that the dog wear a well fitting harness so that the handler can hold the dog comfortably and securely before sending it to retrieve. 

See Guidelines for a full explanation of how to set up for success. Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught Recall. 

Ideally the dog should be trained in exactly the same location that it was first taught the Bounce Game and/or the Hand Game.  Before the dog arrives, once again prepare the training area by measuring where the poles, jumps and the 51ft/15.3m marker should be, and spray paint the exact spots so that the equipment can be put in the same location for the next couple of training sessions.  Also put up the plastic netting if the area is too big or not secure. 

Make sure that the helper has plenty of "balls" hidden about their person and that no one is allowed to throw a "ball" while training Bounce & Hand - if the helper needs more "balls" in a training session they should always walk up the lane, have the "ball" passed to them by the handler (who is standing behind the poles in the handler area), then return back up the lane and resume their position behind the black rubber mat.

1. Allow the dog to run freely off the lead round the training area (see Where & When) so that it can explore the environment.  Do not distract the dog by calling to it or giving it any commands.  Allow it to relieve itself without reprimand - it is just marking the area so that it will recognise it next time and also to pass on the "news" to other dogs that it has been there.

2. The handler should only call the dog to them once it has become settled and is becoming bored with the lack of stimulation.  As the dog already recognises that it is going to do a Dog-Game by the similar visual and environmental triggers it learnt while waiting to do earlier Dog-Games, don't be surprised if it is sitting expectantly at your feet waiting for the harness to be put on!  This shows how strong the dog's happy associations are of the Dog-Games.  However, if the dog is barking with frustration do not be tempted to start training - to do so would be to reward the dog for barking with something it really wants to do.   Wait for it to give up and move away before calling it to you to begin training.  It might be an idea to pre-empt the barking in the next session by starting the training before it gets frustrated enough to bark.  It is not only the dogs that learn by trial and error…..!

3. While the handler is putting on the dog's harness and attaching the lead to it, the helper should place the black rubber mat on the 51ft/15.3m marker. This mat will always be placed on this spot until the training lane is either turned round or set up somewhere else.  The dog then becomes confident of always knowing where the mat and the "ball" are going to be.  The helper then puts an 8 inch/20cm high flyball jump on the jump 4 marker (ie the jump that is 15ft/4.5m from the mat).  He then returns to the mat and takes up his position behind it - standing perfectly still, not saying anything, with his hands behind his back and trying not to distract the dog in any way.

4. The handler then walks the dog close up to the jump and sets it up in the usual manner for Hand, holding the dog by the harness's handle.  He must not be tempted to manhandle the dog by pushing it into the required position, or turning it in circles in an attempt to distract the dog.  These actions disorientate the dog and make it lose its sense of direction as to where it is supposed to be running.  The manhandling will also frustrate the dog, as it will upset its balance whilst it is preparing to run.

5. As soon as the dog realises that the mat and the helper are in front of it, the helper should place the "ball" in the centre of the mat and resume his upright stance.

6. The moment the dog begins to pull towards the mat the handler should release their hold on the dog's harness and give the dog's verbal command to retrieve.   Some dogs get distracted by the use of commands, even ones they are used to, when learning a new stage of an exercise - if this is the case it is best to say nothing so that it can concentrate on the matter in hand, and introduce the command later on when the dog has really understood the whole exercise.  The dog jumps over the jump, runs towards the mat, picks the "ball" up, uses the rubber surface to turn round quickly and runs back over the jump to place the "ball" in the handler's hand.  The handler should immediately give the dog its motivator as a reward - or bowl the "ball" in the opposite direction from the training lane for the dog to chase and bring back to its handler.  Either of these methods can be used to reward a dog doing Bounce & Hand.  Try to resist the temptation to throw the "ball" above the ground, as the sight of a chasable object flying through the air could be too big a distraction for other dogs in the lane later on.
   
   
7. If the dog seems confused by the introduction of the jump, move the jump a little closer to the mat so that the dog is closer to the "ball".  The jump can gradually be moved back as the dog's confidence grows. 
   
   
8. Be careful not to place the jump too close to the mat or the dog will run out of room to turn and go back over the jump after picking up the "ball".  This is a particular problem for large dogs, and those with long bodies, who do wide curves coming away from the mat.  You may need to move the jump further back than the jump 4 marker (which is 15ft/4.5m from the mat).   As with all dog training, each dog learns in slightly different ways according to its needs and abilities - remember this and tailor the dog's training accordingly.
   
   
9. Because the dog now has to concentrate not only on retrieving the "ball" but also adjusting its speed and direction as it turns so that it can jump the flyball jump, some dogs need extra help and guidance from their handler. 

You will have noticed when teaching the dog Hand that it usually prefers to turn either to its right or to its left after picking up the "ball".  It will now begin to turn in the same direction as it looks for the handler and realises that there is a jump in front of it.

The dog can be helped to look in the direction of the jump by the handler standing a few feet behind the jump and stepping to one side with the arm extended in the opposite direction from the turn that the dog took.  For instance, if dog turns to its right on the mat, the handler should take a step to their left and put their left arm out to the side so that more of the jump is between the dog and them.  When the dog reaches the centre of the lane the handler can return to the centre of the lane and encourage the dog back over the jump.  This part of the Game must be thoroughly practiced to make sure the dog understands that it MUST DO THE JUMP after it turns to go back to its handler.

10. It now becomes apparent how important it is for the handler to carefully control their body movements (ie their hands, arms, shoulders, torso, head, legs, and feet) as the dog runs towards them so that the dog is not distracted and runs past a jump.

11. If the dog purposely swerves round the jump the handler should immediately turn away and not produce the motivator for the dog (just as you did in earlier mistakes with the other Games).  The dog will not be too upset or distracted and will work out that it must have done something wrong, as it did not get its motivator.  Wait half a minute or so and then repeat the run again, perhaps helping the dog by the handler slightly adjusting their position to help the dog even more.

12. Try to do a maximum of 5 attempts in a session so that the dog is still keen and eager to do more.  Always finish a training session on a successful note and with the dog wanting to still play the game.  He will then be keener and more confident the next time he enters the training area.

13. Remember to write up the dog's notes so that you can begin the next session where you left off.  Also make sure to write down any training difficulties that the dog needs more work on. 

14. The handler should calmly take the dog to a quiet place where it can relax and unwind, and be allowed to retain what it has learnt in its memory without any distractions.  Sometimes a well-ventilated car, which does not give the dog a view of the training area, is an ideal place to let a dog relax in between training sessions.

15. Some dogs can cope with more than one training session in their first lesson, while others benefit more from being taken home and brought back another day, when they are keener to play the game again.  Trust your instincts and remember - it is better to do too little and teach some more next time, than to do too much and take the dog's eagerness away for repeating the Game in the future. If you do try another session later on, consult your notes so that you can start where you left off and try to progress from there.

16. Only put the training equipment away once all the dogs have been looked after and are resting peacefully.  Some dogs become anxious and unsettled when they see their exciting training environment changing as the equipment is moved and dismantled.

17. Once the dogs have had a chance to relax and unwind, and the training equipment and netting have been put away, the dogs should be allowed free time off the lead together, as they did learning Hand and Bounce.  By now you will have seen the benefits of doing this and seen how relaxed the dogs are between one another and which make ideal changeover partners for Gold Bounce & Hand later on.

18. As the training progresses over the sessions, the handler can experiment on standing further away from the jump, to see whether the dog will look for and jump it on its return.  Try to withdraw the amount of guidance the handler needs to give with their bodies so that the dog does not become too dependent on these extra training aids.  Remember that eventually the handler will be over 51ft/15.3m away from the mat and have four jumps to guide the dog over (although once the dog has come to the centre of the lane and is jumping jump number 4, it is more than likely to remain in the centre and do the rest of the jumps as well).

19. Then the second jump can be introduced and placed on jump 3 marker - some dogs need the jump closer than this to begin with so experiment and move the jump back to the marker slowly. 

20. Then the poles can be introduced as well, 6ft/1.8m behind jump 3, so that the dog learns to run through them as well (although by this stage in the dogs training they are so much part of the Game the dog automatically runs through them).

21. The Handler can then experiment and learn when to move to the left hand side of the runback area once the dog has crossed the finish line.

22. Once the dog is consistently doing Bounce & Hand runs over the two jumps and through the poles it is ready to take Level One certificate.

To gain a certificate at Level One the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Bounce & Hand runs.  The mat is on the 51ft/15.3m marker, with flyball jumps on jump 4 and jump 3 markers, and the start/finish poles 6ft/1.8m away from the jump 3 marker.  The handler sends the dog through the poles and over the two jumps to retrieve a "ball" on the black rubber mat at the helper's feet, then the dog returns over the jumps and through the poles, giving the owner the article in return for its reward.

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

Please send in your Dog-Games Main Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Bounce & Hand Level One and with the appropriate fees.

As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games, and your certificate will be posted to you.

Build on Level One training sessions so that gradually, over a period of time that is suitable for the dog's learning processes, the third and finally the fourth flyball jump can be added to the Bounce & Hand lane.  Do not be tempted to rush through these stages - they are the building blocks and foundations of the dog's ability to understand the Game.  Give the dog time to experiment and learn what is expected of it.  If the lessons learnt are not "rock hard" the dog will struggle later on with the added challenge of distractions, changeovers, and the changes of environment and location.

To gain a certificate at Level Two the dog must be able to do at least three out of five correct Bounce & Hand runs over all four jumps, placing the "ball" in its handler's hand in return for its motivator.  The first jump must be 6ft/1.8m from the finish poles and the other three jumps 10ft/3m apart. 

If the dog is unable to fulfill this criteria it should be rested, given further training and should not be tested within an hour of the last attempt.

The dog has now earned its Starters Bounce & Hand - Certificate Level Two and a Starters Bounce & Hand rosette. The dog can now progress on to Bronze Bounce & Hand. Please send in your Dog-Games Main Entry Form giving the details of where and when you passed Starters Bounce & Hand Level Two and with the appropriate fees. As soon as the Entry Form and fees are received the Dog-Games staff will enter your dog's details on the website Roll of Honour, so that you have a record of its achievements as it progresses through the Dog-Games, and your certificate and your rosette will be posted to you.

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